Rolex Men’s Datejust 36 Steel
Ref. 16220
Rolex’s ref. 162XX series of Datejust watches first emerged in 1988, a replacement for the relatively short-lived ref. 160XX range. As you might imagine, considering the brand’s unwavering dedication to their own designs, the aesthetic differences between the two were minimal, if not non-existent, and the new reference number was issued to denote the use of an updated caliber and crystal—something which has been standard practice at Rolex for a generation.
However, in the case of the ref. 162XX, even the revised movement was very similar to the retiring one, and proved such a successful mechanism that it is still in use in the contemporary portfolio more than 30 years later.
The ref. 16220 was introduced the following year in 1989, a straight swap for the previous ref. 16030 which had served since the end of the 1970s.
Like its predecessor, it was fitted with a specific bezel type which is no longer in use by Rolex and it was, in fact, the last Datejust model to have it.
Beyond the change in mechanism though, all was business as usual with the ref. 16220. Arguably the Datejust exemplifies the spirit of the brand more than anything else in the portfolio, treading that fine line between all-out dress piece and something robust and versatile enough to be worn everyday. For many people in the market for that one good watch to last them a lifetime and be handed down to do the same for a son or daughter, it is often the first and last stop in the search.
The ref. 16220 is the perfect compromise for those who appreciate the looks of vintage Rolex but who want all the reassurance and convenience of modern-day engineering.
Below we take a look at this fascinating model in a bit more detail.
After 1988, Rolex’s reference numbers started to offer a bit more in the way of information on bezel design, denoted by the fourth numeral.
So with the ref. 16220, the second 2 designated that the watch had what is known as an engine-turned surround. Fairly close in looks to the widely-used fluted type (which may be one reason they are no longer an option in the current lineup) engine-turned bezels feature a series of decorative grooves etched around the circumference.
One big difference between the engine-turned and fluted styles lay in the metals each was forged from. The latter is only made in gold, whether yellow, rose or white, and fitted to either solid gold cases or else steel watches to form the mix of metals Rolex call Rolesor.
As for the engine-turned examples, they were exclusively stainless steel additions to the “all steel” Datejust models, offering a little more in the way of eye-catching flourishes than the traditional polished, smooth type.
The ref. 16220 was the reference to take the embellished surround up to its retirement in the mid-2000s, and was also the final Datejust to be made from 316L steel. After that, Rolex made the switch to the even stronger 904L (now called Oystersteel) and also thickened up the lugs to add a little more wrist presence.
That means, between its sleeker silhouette and no longer available bezel, the ref. 16220 has the sort of retro charm Rolex collectors yearn for—but with the same level of faultless performance as something straight off the production line.
Inside the ref. 162XX series, including the ref. 16220, sits the Cal. 3135, which superseded the previous Cal. 3035. It was the older caliber that finally brought the high beat 28,800vph balance frequency to the men’s Datejust range, the speed at which all modern Rolex watches tick and that gives the silky smooth sweep to the seconds hand.
Although the Cal. 3035 was a fine movement in itself, the brand clearly felt it could be improved upon, but the changes they made to achieve it were subtle to say the least.
The balance cock was discarded in favor of a full balance bridge and the jewel count increased from 27 to 31. The power reserve was also lengthened to 50 hours and a larger balance wheel was installed.
Other than that, not much else needed doing, and it was really just a case of improving on what was already an industry-leading caliber to ensure it stayed industry-leading.
Rolex’s own Microstella regulating system, an assembly of four timing screws on the inside of the balance wheel which could be adjusted to control the wheel’s inertia and therefore its rate, was retained, first introduced in 1959 and still in use today.
The Quickset also stayed (another feature introduced with the Cal. 3035) which allowed for independent control over the date function without having to spin the hour hands round continually. One slight difference on the Cal. 3135 was that a full rotation of the crown was enough to advance the date by three numerals, as opposed to just one beforehand. And strangely, to set the time with the new movement, that crown had to be wound clockwise while on the Cal. 3035 it was counterclockwise for some reason. Not the biggest hardship in the great scheme of things.
During the Cal. 3135’s exhaustive run, and it has been providing incredible service for more than three decades now, it has continued to be updated—most notably in 2000 when the hairspring was given a major overhaul.
The Nivarox spring of earlier pieces was surpassed by one of Rolex’s own making, a product of five years of exhaustive research and development by the company’s army of metallurgists, physicists and micro-engineers.
Called the Parachrom, it is constructed from an alloy of niobium and zirconium, which together make the component completely antimagnetic, practically impervious to temperature changes and with 10 times the shock resistance than before—three factors that are the biggest killers of timekeeping accuracy. Later, in 2005, the hairspring’s oxide coating was thickened, causing it to react with the air and change color, leading to it being rechristened the Parachrom Bleu.
A major breakthrough for the brand, and one which satisfied their obsession with making everything that goes into their watches themselves, it has since become a standard part across the entire catalog.
36mm steel case
Engine turned bezel
White dial with Roman markers
Jubilee bracelet
Appearance is around 9 out of 10
Comes with original Rolex box. Nothing more.
SOLD for only Php 264995
